Arriving in the darkness, I had no idea what to expect of Granada. Though, coming in on the aerobus I could see the lights of the Alhambra in the distance, high above the lights if the city. I was beginning to get a sense if the size of this world famous castle. As I
only had 2 nights I headed out straight away to find out for myself if the tapas is as good as it is famous for. I wasn’t disappointed. Promptly following my glass of red wine came a plate with 2 crochets, and then a breadstick! The cafe/restaurant in the Plaza Nueva, and had chandeliers hanging from the roof & the wooden beams visible across the roof. From those beams hung legs of cured ham (jamon) which I would learn is everywhere here!
In the morning I began to wander the streets of the old city. Granada is much smaller than Barcelona, with a population of 300,000. I was staying in the centre of town, and it seems on one side of my street is the ‘old’ town & the other the ‘newer’ side of town.
Walking along the tiny street beside the river I stumbled upon the Banuelo Arab Baths, the only remaining bath of it’s time, built in 11th century. I was able to wander through the remnants of the remaining surrounding buildings – the Entrace Hall, Courtyard & the Warm Room (which allowed the water to heat under the surface). The rooms had star shaped sky-lights cut into the stone to let the light in.
There is a big Arab & Islamic influence here which I wasn’t expecting, and I was constantly passing stores that sold insence, hookah pipes, magic lanterns & geanie pants. Artisans shops selling their wares were on many corners. Quite a large number of tourists here to. But that doesn’t detract from the charm of this place. Locals just continue on their way, avoiding tourists meandering on a street because they think it is quaint, forgetting that it is actually a working road (I could be included in that count…!).
high, or that I would get to see snow on this trip. Unbelievable. The greenery around the fortress was in contrast to the snow on the mountains & urban sprawl of the city below, but it was a spectactular sight. I sat with my legs dangling over the stone wall taking it all
in, while 2 buskers sang & clapped along to a Spanish guitar behind me. Again, letting my soul breathe.
There seems to be a large student & art population here. Hippies abound (I love it!) and the buildings of Alcaiceria are decorated with flyers for Spanish lessons, combi vans, 2nd hand goods and a range of other items.
Then it was time for the Alhambra. The Alhambra (derived from Arabic meaning red castle) was a fortress from the 9th century. It was then converted into a fortress-palace, complete with stunning gardens & intricate Arabic & Islamic designs. At that time, the Muslims & Jews were happily living together in Granada until 1492 when Granada fell to the Christian armies, and Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand & Isabella took over. The Christians replaced the Alhambra mosque with a church & destroyed parts of original palace to make way for their own palace. Now parts of it are a fusion of cultures.
Inside the Nazaris Palace, the Islamic design is amazing. Intricate carvings & mosaic tiles line most walls. They are renovating parts of the garden, which will look great when it is finished.
After all that Alhabra’ing, I walked home & decided to join a tapas tour that night. At 8pm I meet my litle group under the statue of Ferdinand & Isabella and we set off. In Spain everyone eats late. The tapas bar beside my hotel wasn’t even open when I left. Our group consists of our tour guide Stefano, his mum, an American couple & their daughter, and a lovely couple from Panama who are doctors doing their residency in Madrid. We hit 4 bars, and consumed vino and lots of food – Jamon, Spanish omlette, meatballs, chicken skewers, crochettes & tempura vegetables. All this for 15 Euro! I fall into bed just before 1am happy to have experienced the full tapas glory of Granada.
Loved Granda. Truly magical. Next stop, Seville.
