As I mentioned before, the Galapagos is nothing like I thought it would be, yet it still feel like an explorer. And it’s true what people say, that you really do need to do a cruise to see it. The boat can take you to so many more places. But again, I’ll start at the beginning….
The day of the cruise arrived and we were excited! The whole group was to be honest. We had a fairly mixed group (I had feared being stuck with smelly horrible people or super smart scientists who wanted nothing to do with the rest of us) with quite a few nationalities represented. Once we settled into our cabins (super cute but super tiny!) we ‘set sail’…under a full motor.
(Getting excited upon spotting our boat)
(Your hostess, Thomas)
(A little sun anyone?)
(Our home away from home)
Our first stop was North Seymour Island. I hadn’t heard much about it but it was a tiny island off Santa Cruz and I didn’t have great expectations. Boy was I wrong! Not 5 minutes after we had anchored we saw 2 orcas. Yes, orcas, killer whales! Incredible! Apparently it’s not the season for them, but that didn’t seem to bother them. We watched them play beside the boat for around 3-4 minutes before swimming off. Unfortunately they were to fast for my camera 🙁
We then hit the water for our first experience snorkelling. From the boat we could see sea lions playing on the rocks, but we weren’t prepared for swimming with them! They came so close you could almost touch them (not that you are allowed to obviously). They were quite happy playing with us and wondering why we were there. It got better when we saw a white tip reef shark and eagle ray 5 minutes later. The rays swim so close that you could easily see the white spots on their back.
After exchanging stories with everyone about what we saw, we headed onto the island itself. Personally is as excited to see the blue footed boobys and try and get some good photos. Turns out they are everywhere and (like everything else on the Galapagos) not at all camera shy.
We also saw more land iguanas, including one hanging out of a tree trying to reach the leaves (he fell out not 5 minutes later) and the red Friget birds. These birds are huge, with a wing span of around 2m and a huge red chest that they puff out when looking for a mate.
(The Magnificant Friget, that’s it’s actual name!)
(Regurgitating food for the baby chic)
And of course, we saw more sea lions….
After a fairly sleepless night (turns out neither Tom or I sleep particularly well when sailing along) we started the day at Brujo Hill, a pristine beach that is usually filled with sea lions, but who were clearly taking the day off when we arrived. We did sea a lot of crabs, both ghost crabs and red crabs and got to enjoy the pristine beach.
Then it was time for Kicker Rock, a place we had been told repeatedly to go and snorkel. Giant rocks jutting out of the water certainly made for a spectacular setting, and the canal between the two main rocks was were we got to see hammerhead sharks, Galapagos sharks, fish and eagle rays. The most special moment of the day for me was swimming about 6 eagle rays as they swam through the canal. They didn’t even care that I was there.
After lunch we spent an hour exploring Lobos Island, famed for it’s sea lion reserve. The island is tiny, but again we could see blue footed boobys, iguanas and frigets. But we had come to see the sea lions and they didn’t disappoint. Basically they use the island as a place to give birth the pups and train them up. There we so many little sea lions pups playing in the rock pools that it was adorable. It is on the rocks and in the shallow water that they learn to swim, dive and play. I could have watched them for hours.
(Catching a lift to shore)
(Sea lions hanging out in the shade with mum)
(The training pool)
(Playing with sticks)
It got even better then when we got to swim with them again. We snorkelled alongside the island and the sea lions would just dive in beside you and do flips. Even the little ones! We also got to see more eagle rays and, much to Tom’s delight, a couple of sea turtles.
Day 3 was Espanola Island and a favourite of many. We started the day with a walk along the beach dodging the sea lions. The water was insanely clear and a beautiful blue turquoise. Then it was more snorkling to see star fish, beautiful fish and more sea lions (notice a theme here?).
After lunch we did a walk in the blistering heat to see some stunning rocky coastline and birdlife. We passed through the sea lion colony to find more pink iguanas bathing in the sun and swimming out to sea. And finally as we set sail for our next destination, we saw manta rays jumping out of the ocean doing flips at sunset. The perfect way to end a day really!
(Lava lizard)
Day 4 was our last full day of the cruise and we couldn’t believe how quickly it had gone by. We had sailed after dinner last night and made it to port around 10pm, meaning we actually got a decent nights sleep! We started the day with a walk on Santa Fe island, checking out the cactus trees (yes trees) and iguanas. And of course, sea lions. Then it was more snorkelling where I got to see sting rays and swim with the sea lions again.
After lunch it was time for another walk, this time on South Plaza island. The difference with this island was that is had a red ‘grass’ growing all over it which was spectacular against the ocean. This was the sea lions ‘bachelor’ island where all the males lived. It was also the site of more iguanas and a stunning rocky cliff face.
And then, the last day arrived. So sad to leave! But we still had one more trip left, the tortoise reserve on Santa Cruz Island. Before we got there, we stopped at the local fish market as it was too funny not to take photos…
The breeding centre was great with many baby tortoises being bred to save them from extinction. They were so cute that I just wanted to take one home! Unfortunately, that’s how they got into this situation…