Taking the train to Hsipaw was sure to be an adventure. We had yet to take a train in this country and for good reason. Run by the government (meaning all money goes to them) they were notoriously slow, late & old. Our train was definitely built in the stone age. Reclining seats were stuck in various stages of recline, lights that faded in & out and a fan that worked for the first hour then stopped. Later we discovered we had a mouse as our carriage mascot – and we were in upper class! We were also the only westerners on the train.
The reason we took it was the bridge over the Gokteik Viaduct. Built in 1901 it was 2nd highest railway bridge at the time, spanning 2257ft across and 318ft into the air.
We rocked & bumped our way out of Mandalay at 4am (damn early starts). It took more than an hour to get out of the city and then we started climbing the hills in a strange zig-zag pattern. The train would suddenly stop on the side of a hill, then reverse back the way we came. It seemed strange to be going the other way until our conductor explained that we had changed tracks. Sure enough looking below us was the old track. Bizarre.
This really was the mail run, stopping at every station on the way. But it was so pretty! The mountains and valleys were stunningly green and rolling. Then farming land and villages with people tending their crops.
(Farmland)
Stopping in Pyin Oo Lwin for breakfast we got out to look around. A town where everyone gets around by horse and stagecoach! A step up from the horse and cart! Men loaded goods onto the train & women sold food to the commuters. When we got back on we discovered a train policeman had been waiting in our carriage to look out for our bags. Honestly, will this country ever cease to amaze me.
(The local barber)
(Bridget gets a ‘double espresso’)
And then there it was, the bridge. We saw it almost 20mins before we crossed it, as we had to make our strange zig zaggy way down the hills. It was impressive! And slightly scary! Our old train was actually supposed to cross this? I had already experienced almost 9 hours of warped tracks that bounced us out of our seats, and I was to trust this bridge? We slowed to an absolute crawl and limped across. It was stunning. (And clearly we made it).
(The bridge from afar)
(Tentatively creeping on)
(Admiring the view)
(Looking back)
We bumped along for 13 hours. The locals slept through it all. And what was one to do after this long on a train to pass the time? Drink beer and eat noodles of course!
Arriving in Hsipaw our presence was noted by the spies, who wrote notes on us as we got off the train. Again, at least someone knows whe I am!
