Upon leaving Bagan early Monday morning we found our spies…as we got our luggage scanned at the airport, the scanner screen was filmed on the security guards phone. He then took video/photos of us collecting the bags. Spies!!
Driving into Mandalay was a feast for your eyes. Big wide streets made it seem very different to Yangon. Peak hour consisted of women dressed for work being doubled on the back of a dirt bike, trucks overflowing with people & produce and the usual green tractor truck belching it’s way along puffing black smoke from the exhaust at the front. Kid monks dressed in beautiful maroon robes collected alms on the street as others made their way to school. An old school fire truck (and I
mean old school) rushed past us with men hanging off all sides ringing a bell – no sirens here! Women carried bricks on their heads as they worked at the construction site.
We again decided to brave the city by bicycle. Unlike Yangon, the streets here are fairly well named & motorbikes are allowed. (Apparently in Yangon a member of the military’s car was hit by a bike, hence all motorbikes were banned). While the roads might be easy to navigate, the traffic can be trouble. There are no signs at intersections – just go whenever you can! Major major intersections have traffic lights or policemen otherwise it’s a free-for-all.
Exploring the Royal Palace in Central Mandalay was disappointing. Though it seemed exotic & exciting, in reality it was a working Army complex – complete with men with big guns at the entrance – surrounded by a moat. In the centre was a fully rebuilt replica of the old Royal Palace (destroyed in WW2) allegedly built by forced labour in the late ’90s. Kinda takes away any soul the place had when you know isn’t original.
(Clearly blending in to avoid being seen by the spies)
We then made the trek to Mahamuni Paya, a giant Buddha where men (only) can stick gold leaves to Buddha himself. What’s with the men only business?! Apparently now there is so much gold on Buddha it is 6 inches thick.
(Photo taken from the ‘women only’ section – blah)
(Making snacks to sell)
(Wood carvers)
By night we undertook to see The Moustache Brothers, a trio of Mandalay comedians who have gained notoriety for their politically edgy jokes. Two of the three also gained jail time – 7 years hard labour. They have repeatedly been ordered to stop by the government but the show must go on. While brother Lu Maw runs the show with almost perfect English (and sign boards to help) the others make brief appearances. Guess when you have done hard prison time that’s your prerogative.
Basically performed in a garage, the show is enlightening and humorous, punctuated with interludes of traditional dance by members of his family – one can only think this may be to keep the government off their case. There were only 4 of us (all foreigners) at the show. The government is happy to let it slide with us, but god forbid that any locals actually attend. It really does make you want to do something to help the situation in this amazing country.
