While this blog isn’t about a particular place, I felt like I had to write it.
Returning from Vinales I was again consumed by the oppressive, crushing feeling of Havana. I like to think of myself as a fairly good traveller, but this was something new. When I started travelling I wanted to do it because it made me happy. After talking to other people about places outside Havana I got the same reviews – they weren’t great.
In an effort to be honest with myself and to try and follow moments of joy through life, I made a decision and did something I hadn’t before done…
I changed my flights and left Cuba early.
I can’t say I hated it, because I didn’t, but I don’t have a great feeling for it, especially Havana. I loved Vinales and many parts of Cuba life, but sadly I can’t seem to move past this feeling.
When people say that Cuba is in a time warp, you have to realise that it really is. The American embargo has really stopped the country progressing. They have the skills – great health care and literacy – yet not the tools or resources. Apparently Cuba has more doctors than all of Africa and they are often the first country to send them overseas when a natural disaster occurs, eg. the Haiti earthquake.
Only 2 years ago rationing stopped, yet shops are still barely stocked and what they do have is usually preserved. There is not much fresh food and if you are a vegetarian you will struggle to find anything to eat on some menus. Fried meat and black beans with rice is the norm.
The lack of Internet shocked me. You read that Internet is available but in reality it is extremely scarce. Our hostel had dial up available at $3/hour, but was so slow we gave up. This added to our feeling of isolation, not just from home but also from other travellers. You couldn’t look up to see if there were like minded people in the area, couldn’t book a hostel and couldn’t change a flight (which I ended up having to do in person and pay cash for).
(This book was actually on sale…)
In Havana you get sick of being scammed. People are only friendly because they want something. Harassment in the street is overwhelming, to the point that I walked the streets with my iPod in. Eating out it is normal for a man to stand outside the restaurant and call out, wave and make kissing noises at you while you eat. There is no down time. It is even hard to find good service in a restaurant.
The locals are happy as they say that the revolution changed the social divide between upper and lower classes. They are happy – now at least everyone is poor. The average wage here is $25 USD per month. That explains why they are after money, but still…
I am glad to have visited Vinales so I know that all is not lost, but I have no desire to come back to Havana. I feel it has shaken me and my confidence in travelling. As I write this sitting in a restaurant a man has just snarled a guttural noise at me. Time to put the iPod back in.
Goodbye Cuba…
